Quick note on endmill speeds

Mild steel with HSS tool you can use 350 RPM / 1 inch how it works is if you use 1/2 inch 700 RPm, if you use 1/4 " 1400 rpm. if you use 3/8 then 8x350 divided by 3 which is 933 rpm...Hope this helps

Machining the Atlas Lathe Motor Pulley

 

Did the rough turning with some old tool I had on hand.  Need to sharpen a good one to get a better finish on the final dimensions. 

P7	p8	p9

Had the jaws set as outside jaws to turn the feeder into a spigot.  Flipped the pulley around and worked on the large sheave.   Next I will reset the jaws to inside holding and chuck the spigot truing the pulley as best possible.   That should allow me to finish the remaining work including boering.

I had contemplated getting a 5/8" tapered mandrel and turning it between centers.  But the six jaw should work and I own it.

Dec 31, 2021

The mandrel is now back ordered.  The new plan is to drill and ream a 1/2" hole and use the 1/2" tapered reamer I have to turn everything concentric.  Then put it back in the six jaw making sure it runs true and bore the hole to 5/8" and broach the keyway.

Pouring the Atlas motor pulley.

 Did not put much effort into this video.  Pointed out the problems. 

Demystifying the B&S No. 6 Plain Screw Machine.

Read most of the specs from the doc on the VintageMachinery.org site last night.  That and watching a few vids has me thinking about old #6 again.

Everything I say here is based on the one specs document.

"DRIVE Cone, 3 steps, largest 11" diameter. 3" belt. Friction back gears. 12 changes of spindle speed forward, 30 to 450 revolutions per minute; 6 backward, 63 to 450 revolutions per minute. Speeds in geometrical progression. 4 forward speeds always instantly available, without shifting belt."

Looks like there is a V belt adaptor screwed to the spindle.  Will look further into that later.

This may have been the selector for the 4 shiftable speeds.   It looks like there are screws in the holes so maybe not.  

At the rear of the machine there is a large gear.

Large gear as viewed through cover on rear of headstock.

xxx

Near the front of the spindle is this pinion gear.   It, the shaft and the large gear turn together.  The bevel gear behind this gear does not turn.

Calculating the metal for first pour with new greensand

Determine metal needed from pattern

Pattern displaced 367g of water.  So volume is 367cc.

Aluminum weighs 2.7g per cc.

2.7 x 367g = 1015.2g

Determine how much metal the flask can accommodate

Flask diameter is 4"
Safe fill is about 3.5" with 1/2" below top

Flask volume is pi r squared x height.

pi x (2x2) x 3.5 =  43.96 ci

43.96 ci x 16.387 = 720 cc      

720 cc x 2.7 g/cc  =  1944g

Looks like I have a nice margin.

Brown & Sharpe No.2 Wire Feed Screw Machine

My B&S No. 6  Plain Screw Machine is missing most of the knobs and levers.  This machine although a bit newer may have some clues as to what they looked like.

There is also this

First Ram Up with New Greensand

 

Got the mold rammed up this afternoon.   Still need to cut the pouring basin and blow out the mold.  It got dark cold and windy.  Did not want to go over to the other shop to get an air hose and blowgun.  Need to find them for this shop so I don't need to drag them around.

The sand is the green tub is did not go through the riddle I used for filling on top the pattern.
The others should be self explanatory.

Masonry sand + sodium bentonite mixing trials

Initial target is 4% moisture with minimum clay.

Sample	Sand g	Bentonite g	Dry Post Mix g	Water-g---	Wet Post Mix g	Observation
1	1000	40	1037	70	unknown	Close if tightly compressed
2	1000	60	1061	40	1100*	About the same no worse
3	1000	80g 7.1%	1080	40g 3.5%	1120	Good enough to use

On the second sample I lost 20/60 grams of clay in part due to the wind.  So I am doing it over with a 2 gallon bucket and a snap on lid.  Would prefer a screw on lid but don't have them in this size.  After tumbling in the 2 gallon bucket my weight was one gram extra.  Well within the expected margin of error for this.

* I discovered that weighing the spray bottle does not work as significant water is lost due to evaporation and maybe droplets that never hit the sand.   A better method is to spray the water onto the sand on the scale while mixing.   That lets one hit the exact target number.  This has me unsure of the water in sample 1.

I am storing sample 2 in a ziplock bag.  Will make an observation regarding it again in the morning.  Need to bring it in so as not to freeze.

Added a few more rows to the table.

1. Progress on making new green sand. After doing 3 test batches of approx 1 Kilo each I settled on a mix of 7.1% clay and 3.5% water. This test batch consisted of 1 Kilo of masonry sand, 80g of bentonite and 40 grams of water. If needed I can go higher on the sand and water but this feels like it will work and I have wiggle room. Added water with a spray bottle to the mixer. 
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4. Notes on combining the sand/clay/water in a cement mixer. Add dry ingredients and tumble in cement mixer. I erred on the side of caution and sprayed water over the sand. A fine spray helps prevent lump which happen when using a cement mixer instead of a muller. Initially I sprayed water with the mixer stopped. Mixing by had between each spraying. When I got to where it was no longer dusty I sprayed with the mixer running without the lid. Did not come out as well as the test batches I mixed by hand. This has small lumps that while not all clay, are clay rich. Put the stuff in covered pails. Will see if the lumps lose any of their moisture with time. Maybe breakup with a bit more time in the mixer if they do. If not I will break up what I can with a riddle then dry and ball mill the rest so I can mix it back in. With the lumps being clay and moisture rich the rest is short or them. Could be used as is if I riddled the first bit on the pattern to avoid the lumps. But I want to see If I can get it to where it should be to determine if using the mixer for adding water saved time. Next Morning: The lumps were still there but soft and smashed easily with ramming. Sand is useable.

Somewhat Different Lost PLA Process

 

Xalthran — Today at 9:49 PM

I have actually never used PoP for lost PLA, but I -did- do a thin coating of investment and surrounded it with homemade sodium silicate bound sand. Poped it in a small toaster over for a couple hours then threw it in my small kiln along with the silver I was melting and simultaneously pulled the mold out and poured the silver.