Update: Push down stack syndrome

Need a heat source to get the car trailer frame hot enough to pound down some metal I stretched removing the old suspension.

Started playing with various pipes.  Made a 1/2" tube to replace the 3/4" I am currently using on the foundry furnaces.   Turned an aluminum bushing to fit the 1/2" into a stub of 3/4" that threads into the input cone.

Started rounding up stuff to make the frame heater which might end up serving as a forge burn.  Found a 3/4" to 1" flare for the hot end and a 3/4" tee for the cold end.  Found about 2 feet of pipe but no threads.  I have never single point threaded.   Chirpy tells me I can cut regular 16TPI thread into the pip and it will mate with the NPT threads parts.     Now the 3/4" pipe has an OD of a bit over an inch which is too large to fit into the Atlas 10" lathe spindle.   Never fear I have a steady rest.   Dusted it off mounted the other end of the pipe in the 6 jaw chuck.   Did a skim cut on the pipe and ended up with 1.03 good enough for a major diameter.    Cut the lead in an gutter at the end of the area to be threaded.  Took them down to about 1".  Did not actually measure as the digital caliper is hiding.  Uses the digital caliper for the other readings.

Printed out the change gear info I needed.   Back in the shop I inspected my change gears both on the lathe and on the shelf.  Oh dang !   I don't have the 96 tooth gear need for the setup!  Was thinking about getting on from ebay but wait.  I should be able to 3D print one.   

The 3D printer needs to be leveled and have to see if the make shift Z endstop works.   The idea was that we would add a z probe for bed leveling.   But ended with a captive probe and it don't have a metal bed.  But with luck the stop will work and we can get this done.

But the first order is to come up with something to keep the cats off it for the 10 hours or so it will take to print the gear. 

Round and round we go.

I was tempted to bore out the flare and T and use grub screws to hold them on the pipe.  But lets see if we can get a bit closer to doing it right.

Along the way I also noticed I don't have a drive dog to fit over a 1" OD pipe.

If I had one it would be possible to offset the tailstock and cut the NPT thread according to a cheat sheet sort of method in the Atlas manual.   I am very temped to cast on.   As long as speeds were kept down as in threading I expect it would do just fine.