Had a full day. Started roofing as soon as there was enough light. Started prep a 6:30. Started cutting the ridge vent slot with the battery power saw. At 8 I switched to the corded skill saw. Finished that and did the last run of underlayment on that side. Also drip edge and starter strip. Was about to start laying shingles and was called to the museum to unload a player piano. Helped a friend identifying the engine on the new to him trencher. Was a TJD on a ditwitch 2200 or 2300. Took a nap. Got up and it had cooled off so I went back on the roof and shingled until it was too dark to see. Like IT!
Many day I don't have the mental energy to do 1/3.
Thursday, June 18, 2020
Wednesday, June 17, 2020
Alloying Yellow brass to create free machining brass
Alloy 'regular brass' to be free cutting brass. Looks like adding 3% lead to yellow brass will do the trick. My lead is most likely the Linotype alloy 4% Tin, 12% Antimony, and 84% Lead.
LL = Pb + Sb + Sn
Lets restate this as
LL = 84% Pb + 16% other
Calculate amount of LL, Linotype Lead,that contains 1g of Pb
84/100 LL = 1
LL = 1*(100/84)
LL = 1.19
working backwards to check
.84 * 1.19 = 0.9996
So we need to use 1.19g of printers lead to get 1 gram of lead
A 1000g batch of free cutting brass will need 30 grams of Pb.
So we use 1.19 * 30g = 35.7g of printers lead.
Combined with 1000g - 35.7g or 964.3g of yellow brass.
Found this on the addition of antimony to brass.
Thinking is that .05 is only a limit in that
more will not help with the dezincification. Going to give it a try.
LL = Pb + Sb + Sn
Lets restate this as
LL = 84% Pb + 16% other
Calculate amount of LL, Linotype Lead,that contains 1g of Pb
84/100 LL = 1
LL = 1*(100/84)
LL = 1.19
working backwards to check
.84 * 1.19 = 0.9996
So we need to use 1.19g of printers lead to get 1 gram of lead
A 1000g batch of free cutting brass will need 30 grams of Pb.
So we use 1.19 * 30g = 35.7g of printers lead.
Combined with 1000g - 35.7g or 964.3g of yellow brass.
Found this on the addition of antimony to brass.
Arsenic and antimony can be added in small quantities, up to about 0.05 wt%, to all brass alloys containing less than 80% copper to inhibit the dezincification types of corrosion in yellow brass alloys.
Thinking is that .05 is only a limit in that
more will not help with the dezincification. Going to give it a try.
Tuesday, June 16, 2020
Sorting metal from the print shop
 |
| Brass Dragon Teeth 28 lbs per can |
 |  |  |
| Junk Steel | Copper | Lead |
 | ||
| Toothed Steel Strips |
Monday, June 15, 2020
Atlas Lathe tool rack.
It was too windy to work on the garage roof this weekend. Did manage to pull off the soffet and facia on the north side. Uncovered a dozen wasp nests but no live ones.Sunday I cobbled up a 23 position rack for the lantern/rocker lathe tool holders. Room to grow.
The stout bit in the clamps mounts to the wall. The board next to it fits in the slanted dado.
Everything but the wide board has been milled out of pallet stickers from the local lumber yard. Gluing the last section to the stack. Yup that's planer snipe just above the quick clamp. Another pass through the surface planer will fix.
The stack has been glued to the support and coated with boiled linseed oil. The mounting holes will be drilled to match the studs.Woodworking to improve the shop is fun because minor goof's are simply acceptable. Too a point if it works it is good enough.
Friday, June 12, 2020
Update
Am busy shingling the garage roof. Might be done in a week. Will not be doing much else unless it rains or it too windy. Second if far more likely.
Wednesday, June 10, 2020
Zamac 2 for under $2 a pound.
The composition of Zamac 2 by percent is
Aluminum 3.5-4.3
Copper 2.5-3.0
Magnesium 0.02-0.05
Aluminum 3.5-4.3
Copper 2.5-3.0
Magnesium 0.02-0.05
Iron (max) 0.1
Lead (max) 0.005
Cadmium (max) 0.004
Tin (max) 0.003
Zinc Bal.
Seems the Magnesium is optional.
Pennies are 2.5% copper and 96.5% zinc.
A penny weights 2.500g.
Lead (max) 0.005
Cadmium (max) 0.004
Tin (max) 0.003
Zinc Bal.
Seems the Magnesium is optional.
Pennies are 2.5% copper and 96.5% zinc.
A penny weights 2.500g.
Lets stick to metric but note that a lb is 453.592g or 181.4368 pennies.
Lets round up to 182 pennies for each pound we are alloying.
How large would a crucible need to be to hold 5 lbs of zamac 2?
so 426.383:1 as 1:x
or 1/426.383 = 0.002345309 cubic feet or 4.0527 cubic inches
4x4=16 or 16 cubic inches for 4 lbs. Would be nice to use a steel pipe if it did not contaminate the metal. Maybe if its seasoned first.
Casting Temperature
Melting temperature of Zamac 2 is about 6 degrees F higher so maybe 805F for casting. Guess here.
Procedure
Buy and clean 4 lbs of pennies. Thats 4x182 or $7.28
In theory they should weigh 728 x 2.500g or 1820.000g
We know 975% of the pennies are Zinc.
So .975 x 1820 = 1774.500g and 45.5g copper.
How much is 1% of our total. We know 1774.500g of Zinc comprises 97.5% of the penny but only 93% of the Zamac 2.
1774.500g/97 = 19.081g is 1% so 100% is 1908.100 grams.
Assuming the 7% is 4% aluminum and 3% copper we need
aluminum 4x19.081g = 76.324g
The pure aluminum will come from ingots from aluminum cans.
total copper 3x19.081g = 57.243g
Note that we must include the copper from the pennies in this.
Assume the missing weight in the pennies is due to loss of copper.
So we will add that amount of copper, solid house wiring, to make up the difference.
Found this
http://gizmology.net/stovetop.htm
Lets round up to 182 pennies for each pound we are alloying.
How large would a crucible need to be to hold 5 lbs of zamac 2?
In Imperial or US customary measurement system, the density is equal to 426.383 pound per cubic foot [lb/ft³]... .Lets do 1 lb first.
so 426.383:1 as 1:x
or 1/426.383 = 0.002345309 cubic feet or 4.0527 cubic inches
4x4=16 or 16 cubic inches for 4 lbs. Would be nice to use a steel pipe if it did not contaminate the metal. Maybe if its seasoned first.
Casting Temperature
| Zamac 7 Casting temperature | 395—425 °C | 743—797 °F |
Procedure
Buy and clean 4 lbs of pennies. Thats 4x182 or $7.28
In theory they should weigh 728 x 2.500g or 1820.000g
We know 975% of the pennies are Zinc.
So .975 x 1820 = 1774.500g and 45.5g copper.
How much is 1% of our total. We know 1774.500g of Zinc comprises 97.5% of the penny but only 93% of the Zamac 2.
1774.500g/97 = 19.081g is 1% so 100% is 1908.100 grams.
Assuming the 7% is 4% aluminum and 3% copper we need
aluminum 4x19.081g = 76.324g
The pure aluminum will come from ingots from aluminum cans.
total copper 3x19.081g = 57.243g
Note that we must include the copper from the pennies in this.
Assume the missing weight in the pennies is due to loss of copper.
So we will add that amount of copper, solid house wiring, to make up the difference.
Found this
http://gizmology.net/stovetop.htm
Tuesday, June 9, 2020
General Tool 825 Drill Sharpener
Released a video on the General Tool 825 Drill Grinder. I know what the worlds needs is another on this tool. But it was a request.
This looks to be promising. Its simple and sturdy. I expect to replace that fiber wheel with a stone.
This looks to be promising. Its simple and sturdy. I expect to replace that fiber wheel with a stone.
Sunday, June 7, 2020
Update: CME Six Jaw Chuck
My new six jaw chuck stated to get hard to turn. I have not used it enough for this to happen. So I tore it down and found it need more lube.
Now Keith Rucker says to put grease in chucks. Other say its a bad idea use oil or nothing. Well this thing would not be working dry. So I used oil then after I had it nearly assemble opened it back up and added a few teaspoons of graphite flakes. The graphite seems to help. Let see how it goes a few weeks from now.
Now Keith Rucker says to put grease in chucks. Other say its a bad idea use oil or nothing. Well this thing would not be working dry. So I used oil then after I had it nearly assemble opened it back up and added a few teaspoons of graphite flakes. The graphite seems to help. Let see how it goes a few weeks from now.
Should note that it is labeled both CME and a second name SANOU which I see elsewhere. So maybe just a rebranded SANOU.
Found that blowing the chuck out with air after turning with the jaws open helps get the chips out of the way. Only alternative is to tear down the chuck. Not going to happen that often.
Update: Push down stack syndrome
Need a heat source to get the car trailer frame hot enough to pound down some metal I stretched removing the old suspension.
Started rounding up stuff to make the frame heater which might end up serving as a forge burn. Found a 3/4" to 1" flare for the hot end and a 3/4" tee for the cold end. Found about 2 feet of pipe but no threads. I have never single point threaded. Chirpy tells me I can cut regular 16TPI thread into the pip and it will mate with the NPT threads parts. Now the 3/4" pipe has an OD of a bit over an inch which is too large to fit into the Atlas 10" lathe spindle. Never fear I have a steady rest. Dusted it off mounted the other end of the pipe in the 6 jaw chuck. Did a skim cut on the pipe and ended up with 1.03 good enough for a major diameter. Cut the lead in an gutter at the end of the area to be threaded. Took them down to about 1". Did not actually measure as the digital caliper is hiding. Uses the digital caliper for the other readings.
Along the way I also noticed I don't have a drive dog to fit over a 1" OD pipe.
Started playing with various pipes. Made a 1/2" tube to replace the 3/4" I am currently using on the foundry furnaces. Turned an aluminum bushing to fit the 1/2" into a stub of 3/4" that threads into the input cone.
Printed out the change gear info I needed. Back in the shop I inspected my change gears both on the lathe and on the shelf. Oh dang ! I don't have the 96 tooth gear need for the setup! Was thinking about getting on from ebay but wait. I should be able to 3D print one.
The 3D printer needs to be leveled and have to see if the make shift Z endstop works. The idea was that we would add a z probe for bed leveling. But ended with a captive probe and it don't have a metal bed. But with luck the stop will work and we can get this done.
But the first order is to come up with something to keep the cats off it for the 10 hours or so it will take to print the gear.
Round and round we go.
I was tempted to bore out the flare and T and use grub screws to hold them on the pipe. But lets see if we can get a bit closer to doing it right.
The 3D printer needs to be leveled and have to see if the make shift Z endstop works. The idea was that we would add a z probe for bed leveling. But ended with a captive probe and it don't have a metal bed. But with luck the stop will work and we can get this done.
But the first order is to come up with something to keep the cats off it for the 10 hours or so it will take to print the gear.
Round and round we go.
I was tempted to bore out the flare and T and use grub screws to hold them on the pipe. But lets see if we can get a bit closer to doing it right.
Along the way I also noticed I don't have a drive dog to fit over a 1" OD pipe.
If I had one it would be possible to offset the tailstock and cut the NPT thread according to a cheat sheet sort of method in the Atlas manual. I am very temped to cast on. As long as speeds were kept down as in threading I expect it would do just fine.
Wednesday, June 3, 2020
Update: New to me little shop crane with pneumatic tires
Started welding on the shop crane after squaring it up a bit. That is to say the legs are 40 inches apart front and back. At least they where when I started welding. Not sure maybe the pulled a bit. Forgot to check! But the important thing is it is no longer leaning to one side.
Welding with the new helmet is sure nice. Maybe I can develop some skill.
Found a copy of the book for the Atlas 10" lathe. Contained this.
Having 3 plain bearing lathes I found it interesting. No one on Paul's Garage did LOL.
Go figure!
Chirpy regarding richness
ChirpyYesterday at 8:46 AM
lol
[8:46 AM]
usually I just tune it with an ingot at the side of the exhaust
[8:47 AM]
if you see no smoke and it looks to be burning cleanly, and on the ingot, it forms a little bit of soot, then it's perfect for copper/brass/bronze alloys
ChirpyYesterday at 8:47 AM
if it runs clean on both no smoke and none on the ingot, but doesnt clean it off from too rich, then perfect for aluminum(edited)
[8:48 AM]
last few times, Ive used an cheap adjustable leaf blower
ChirpyYesterday at 8:55 AM
you can also turn the fuel down a little bit to match the blower, which technically, it'll create as much or more heat with less fuel usually
dustyToday at 12:37 PM
@Chirpy Does the ingot test for rich/lean work for propane too?
ChirpyToday at 12:38 PM
yea, it should
[12:38 PM]
color test is easier tho unless your furnace is glowing bright orange, lol
[12:39 PM]
Ive never tried it really for propane, but in theory, it should work fine
[12:39 PM]
same with the galvanized sheet metal trick
dustyToday at 12:52 PM
WIll have to look up the color test
ChirpyToday at 12:53 PM
if you have orange wisps in the flame, it's slightly rich, or if it's got a green'ish color, then it's oxidizing
dustyToday at 12:53 PM
Made a 1/2" pipe for the burner yesterday. Man does that look small LOL
ChirpyToday at 12:53 PM
lol
dustyToday at 12:53 PM
OH ok
ChirpyToday at 12:53 PM
and if you have all orange flame or lots of orange wisps in it, then your really running it rich, lol
ChirpyToday at 1:04 PM
for a furnace tho, you dont want any orange color to it
[1:04 PM]
just a nice blue color that's solid
[1:04 PM]
that's a neutral propane flame
SciFiMindToday at 1:04 PM
I'm talking at the vent hole not the burner
[1:04 PM]
For a slightly rich burn
NEW
ChirpyToday at 1:05 PM
I never let it get to the vent hole, it just swirls around the inside of the furnace and only goes the first few inches at most, then swirls up to the top
[1:05 PM]
oil burner tho, thats a different thing tho
SciFiMindToday at 1:11 PM
Yes I like blue
NEW
[1:12 PM]
If you are running your furnace and you dont have the slightest lick of flame at the vent hole it means all of the fuel is combining with oxygen in the furnace. Where is that oxygen coming from? If all of the fuel is finding oxygen then you aren't truly running a reducing atmosphere in your whole furnace
ChirpyToday at 1:12 PM
for foundry furnace, you dont need to flood the furnace with flames, otherwise you are just wasting fuel because when your melting metal, you dont need that much fuel and air, lol
SciFiMindToday at 1:12 PM
It's like a back draft
ChirpyToday at 1:13 PM
yea, Im talking about a neutral furnace atmosphere, which is what we were talking about
[1:13 PM]
little blue whisps at the tips of the flames inside of the furnace means very slightly rich, and you dont need them shooting out of the furnace
SciFiMindToday at 1:14 PM
You were talking about how to tell if it was rich or lean by flame color
ChirpyToday at 1:14 PM
it's like using a 1 million BTU hot air balloon burner when you only need a propane torch for soldering plumbing pipes, lol
SciFiMindToday at 1:14 PM
You dont need them shooting out
Regarding Sand
I'd start at 4% and add more till it passes the squeeze test
[10:49 PM]
it's usually between 4-10% depending on the grain size
[10:49 PM]
finer the stuff, the more you have to add I believe
NEW
[10:50 PM]
I personally added around 3% of each, so around 6-7% overall in my sand, but it's pretty fine
[10:50 PM]
after it passes the squeeze test, toss it up in the air and catch it a few times, if it doesnt go into pieces, then it should be good for making molds with
[10:51 PM]
last test to do is to do the same as the squeeze test, but create an air tight seal around your hand with the sand in the middle of it tightly, and blow through it, that'll show if it can breathe easily or not
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More Richness
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