Sunday, October 4, 2020

Needed a non angled cut off to cut the flue out of the water heater during the foundry furnace build.  Rather than buy one I turned down a bolt and made an arbor that fit the Makita die grinder.  It can only be used at a reduced speed as the die grinder runs too fast.  Forgot and plugged the die grinder directly into the outlet and bent the mandrel.   If I ever need one again they are easy enough to make maybe use a grade 8 bolt next time.


 

Monday, September 21, 2020

More organizers

 Started on mini shelves.  This version holds cardboard pie boxes from dollar general.  This is a 5 bay unit holding 20 boxes.  Four bays are complete in this photo   Materials are mostly salvaged.


A few days ago I made a collar to connect the 8” to twin 4“ hose transition on the dust collector.   Used the circle jig on the router.




Friday, September 11, 2020

Regarding greensand clay

 

Regarding greensand clay


Should have included the source for the above.



take a pvc pipe or whatever you use to cut feeders/risers with, and pack around 25mm of sand in the bottom loosely, then try blowing through it

that'll tell you if your sand can breathe

Sunday, August 30, 2020

Larger furnace build


I have opted to use the 1.5HP TEFC motor on the muller.   The drive bits from the spa beds are too weak.  So I either have to make a stronger drive system or use the worm drive.

I already purchased 1" bearing and pillow blocks.  So I am headed in that direction.


Did the Amarillo trip and did not get sand or gutters.  Just too much to do in a day.

Wore us both out.  2 days to recover.

Aug 30 or there about LOL

Cut into the water tank.  The Diablo  blades are great.

Need to figure out the height. 

inches

5 to top of bottom, its curved
2 for wool
1/2 for satanite
3/4 for drain
2 for tyre  (this is generous)
2 more to keep flame off crucible
11 for Salamander A20 Cruciable + 3/4 top clearance

23 inches

Going for an oil burner with propane preheat
Thinking of a stainless exhaust pipe for the burner tube





Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Shop crane

The first attempt was to patch up what was already there.   A snatch block and a thicker cable were used.  Unfortunately the existing mast that held the rear pulley was weak and collapsed during testing.





Monday, August 10, 2020

Hub City gear box uses Mobil 600W

Gear box 0220-26661-2601
Model 2601
Ratio 150:1
Style LA-R

  • MOBIL 600W SUPER CYLINDER OIL is an extra high performance high viscosity oil.
  • Designed for use in enclosed worm gears operating at moderate to high speeds and temperatures.
  • Recommended where heavy loads, slow speeds or high temperatures demand high viscosity oils.


Sunday, August 2, 2020

Have not blogged in a while.  Setup for turning on centers.  Drive plate came with the dividing head.  Dog is a chunk of steel.  Pulley blank is glued on with locktite



The fan went on out the Linde AC stick welder.  Using a room fan with the case off for now.


Visited Harbor Freight and a portable band saw followed me home.  Also picked up a set of parallels and another angle grinder.  

Thursday, July 16, 2020

Mig Tips for Propane Burners

Chirpy regarding mig tips for burners 
mig tips are fine tbh
025 for 1/2" NPT pipe, 030 for 3/4" NPT, and 035 for 1" NPT pipe
perfect sizes actually based on orfice sizes

Wednesday, July 15, 2020

Muller Build July 15-


Left to do

Maybe in this order
  1. Mount the drum to the stand
  2. Make a mount for the top bearing.
  3. Cobble together the drive bits.
  4. Make the arm, plows and roller(s)
  5. Make the trap door for emptying
  6. Wheels and maybe a fold up or detachable hitch

Mounting the drum

But the belt setup going to the drum is a fixed length which means the location of the drum and and 2nd spindle are inter dependent.   I want the drum centered left to right but can fudge a few inches front to back.    Need to mock this up. Again.

I am not crazy about welding mounting brackets to the bottom of the drum.   Maybe use long angle iron running front to back and weld on the outside perimeter of the drum where there is already a weld. Perhaps a few tacks along the bottom if needed.

If I don't need to make the drum adjustable for belt tension, and I don't think I will.  It can be attached to these angles with pins instead of bolts.   The idea is that if for some reason I need to break it down it would be a lot faster if it did not require wrenches. 

The drum can be mounted with just 2 angle irons which run along the outside of the frame.  I can add these mounts and hold off on drilling holes for pins or bolts until I get the drive sorted.  There are 2 fair sized runs of angle iron left from the saw.  Maybe these can be used,  trying not to use bed frame.

11AM

Attempted to accomplish this with no luck.  Played with the parts and figured maybe I should cut the stand down.   It and my deep drum together are too much.  I can take 10 inches off the stand and it will provide a more stable base.   Was thinking about mounting the drive on the end but realized the side might be a better deal.  Less folding, or changing direction.   The small 2.5" pulley I selected for the 1st shaft will not work.  Its hole is too small.   Found that after pulling it off a motor.  Need to take another look around and if I can't find on I will turn one.  Leave a stub on it for chucking it in the lathe.  The I can make it a bit over size and turn it down to get it right.  If I end up sizing this shaft too there will be plenty of meat for the larger shaft.   So it looks like I need to turn two pulleys.  Luckily I 'THINK" I already have cast blanks that will works.   So that will be my afternoon.   But first I want to make the missing pin from the Atlas lathe compound.  With luck I can find a pin in the assorted unknowns and bevel the end to match instead of turning one down.

This is wrong.  The 2" pulley on the second shaft already  exists it is the small toothed pulley.

Maybe the top bearing mount should also be a quick release type of thing.  Make changing out the stuff inside the drum easier.  That way I can do things other than mull sand.  No plans but would like the option.

I cut the frame down a bit to make it shorter.   It will attach as shown but yeah its upside down.  The board in the back will hold the pulleys.

  
The frame with the bit I cut off resting on it.With the bit removed



Friday 11:30 AM 

Got my but out to the shop before 7AM.   Yesterday I realized the existing shafts are 7/8" which should be good enough for the 1.5HP setup.  Not too sure on the cushioned bearings but will go with them and see if I need to swap them out.

The blank for the 1st shaft small pulley was already in the Atlas.  Bored and reamed the hole to 5/8".  Yeah found a drill just smaller and the right sized reamer.  Go TEAM!

There is not enough stock to easily finish the pulley in a chuck.  So I set out to make a tapered arbor and turn it between centers.  Found a 3/4" bit of shaft.  About then I got fed up with the lantern tool post never being on center.  Looked just over the other side of the lathe and seen a 3 or 4" long chunk of round steel the same diameter as the big washer on the tool post.   



So I push the arbor onto the stack and start on the tool post spacers that will eliminate the rocker.  Started out intending to make just one size a little over 1/2" tall.  Then I realized I should make a small number to match the various tool holders.  So after drilling about 3/4" in I started over drilling all the way through.
First one parted off.
 

Next I need to part them off.  But I need to turn the jaws around, bump the lump around a bit and face it off again because we want the washers to have an even thickness.  Thinking I may need make up matching shim washers for more exact adjustment.   But maybe not as most of the tools are held at an angle in the tool holder and get taller as they are extended.  The only exception is the boring tool holders.  Once I have this I can setup an off lathe jig that I can use to set the correct height this way when inserting a tool into the holder.  

The tools that come to mind are the left/right/center tool holders.  With luck these are the same.  Parting tool holder.  And the boring bar holder.

So after lunch if its not too hot. First flip the jaws.   Center and face the stock.  Find maybe sharpen the parting tool.   Then part off spacers.   I see the tool post playing musical chairs.  And remember that I can turn a spacer down but can't stretch it!  Maybe write this up a bit in the Lathe Maintenance post.

Did I mention the rocker half moon is currently hiding.  Happened just after I finished boring this morning.  Maybe it will get bored and show itself this afternoon.

Assuming that I have a working tool post.  Get back to making the arbor.  Will do a light pass on the bar to see if the tail stock is centered.  It will give me a starting point in any case.   Then adjust the tail stock to get the needed taper +2 thou on the big end and -2 on the small.    With luck I will get this dialed in prior to hitting the finial size.  

Have the live and dead center, drive plate but no lathe dog.  Actually have one but its way too small.  So I need to make one.  Plan to bolt to square bars together and drill a hole centered at the join to fit the arbor.  Maybe need a small spacer between the stock when its drilled to get compression on the arbor.
I was originally thinking of making this out of aluminum.   Have to see what I have on hand.


template


Monday  July 20

Back to making pulleys.   Have made a mandrel so I don't need to chuck them.  Sharpened a  round nose lathe tool on the Sharp All.  

So now back to making pulleys.  Going to use a 2.5 on both the motor and first shaft.  Motor is a 7/8" ID.

Tuesday July 21









Calculating shaft sizes

Calculating shaft sizes



I think the upper right formula for a shaft with key way applies.

Lets work out what the motor shaft needs to be.
cube root ((40x1.5HP) /1725) = 0.33 in

So now how do I work out the size for the next shaft and the one after that.
HP = torque x RPM so that does not change,  

From a previous post with the addition of RPM for each shaft.

belt  motor 1st shaft 2nd shaft spindle ratio
1: V  2" 10" 5:1
2: V 2.6" 9.75"* 3.75:1
4: flat tooth 2" 8.5" 4:1
RPM172534592 23 75:1


again for the 1.5HP motor
cube root ((40x1.5HP) /1725) = 0.33 in
1st shaft
cube root ((40x1.5HP) /345 = 0.56 in
2nd shaft
cube root ((40x1.5HP) /92 = 0.87 in   (7/8")
spindle
cube root ((40x1.5HP) /23 = 1.38 in

So clearly I will have to up size the 2nd shaft and bearings to use the 1.5 HP

What about the 1/2 HP motor
cube root ((40x0.5HP) /1725) = 0.23 in
1st shaft
cube root ((40x0.5HP) /345 = 0.39 in
2nd shaft
cube root ((40x0.5HP) /92 = 0.60 in
spindle
cube root ((40x0.5HP) /23 = 0.95 in

On this one the 2nd is also weak but maybe close enough to work.  Do what I can to use a shaft without a key way between the pulleys.  Maybe that will belp.

Conclusion

The unit can be built with the existing drive stuff and the 1/2 HP motor.

To upgrade to the 1.5 HP I will need a 1" 2nd shaft and bearings.  Will also need to cast or find a beefier large pulley for the 2nd shaft.  The hub on the existing one can not be bored to an inch.

Hope is that belt 2 will be ok.  Maybe need to double it or go to a poly V. Need to figure out how to calculate that.