The tap wrench has been in the vinegar bath for almost 2 weeks, 13 days to be exact.
About 1/2 through I tried a bit of heat from the propane torch with no results.
Today I tried to turn it for the first time in about a week using a vice grip on the handle.. I noticed the handle turned just slightly and the jaw was rocking with it. Applied PB Blaster. It took a fair bit of pressure to turn but slowly it started to turn a bit further and eventually it moved over the entire range.
It still turns bloody hard so removed the penetrating oil with brake cleaner, cleaned the soak tube and filled with fresh vinegar. I left it with the jaw closed which exposes parts previously hidden. With luck it will remove rust from these areas and it will move freely.
Three days later I made this video. The wrench is ready for use.
Nov 26th UPDATE: The wrench had seized up while sitting in the drawer with the others. Put it in the vice and worked it loose. Lubricated with 20W ND oil. In terms of fit this wrench is quite possibly the best in my collection. But yeah it looks crappy.
In a non productive mode for some reason. Need to work my way out of that with easy things.
This is a 15" tap wrench from a rummage sale. It is going to be a bit of a test case for vinegar on badly rusted steel with moving parts. Vinegar has been doing a bang up job on removing mill scale for me.
Have a fresh gallon of evapo-rust but want to see how the vinegar works. It's been soaking it in vinegar but not submerged. Need to get a PVC pipe to do that. Thinking vinegar is thin and may creep into places other de-rusters may not go. Have not verified that.
Reverse electrolysis only works on surface rust as it is line of sight.
May alternate with heat.
The brown and sharpe lathe has lost of rusted in things that are supposed to move. Maybe apply what I learn here there.
Chirpy says "420 degrees before it starts to affect temper those are probably tempered into 500F tho, that way they're not super hard, but still have a little deformation in use and you could always wrap that area of the tap wrench up in a soaking wet rag too, it'll soak the heat away and let you heat that up without worrying about losing the temper"
with brass alloys, if you think it's hot enough, then it really isn't, lol
[6:06 AM] when your scooping the dross off, you should see green/yellow flames where your scooping, and a small steel rod, it should wet to it and not ball up on it
[6:06 AM] just heat it up first to preheat it and drive off any moisture
[6:07 AM] a steel coat hanger would work perfect for that, just stick it in the metal and stir it around very gently to make sure everything has melted, and when you pull it out, it shouldnt have anything on it except where it wetted to it
if you take a piece of aluminum wire, just a small, short section and sit it on top of the melt right before you pour, do not mix it in, just let it sit on the top of the melt as you pour. when you pour, the aluminum will help the brass wet it's way through the mold and flow into the mold easier, and you'll end up with a white powder on the cast part, which you just brush off with a wire brush
and I'm not talking about a massive piece of aluminum wire, just a very short section, like 3/4" section of 1/8" aluminum wire at largest
yea, higher temperature is the best bet
I usually wait till every last piece is melted down into the crucible, then skim the dross and everything off of the melt, put it back into the furnace and set a timer on your phone for 10-15 mins depending on how well insulated your furnace is and how good your burner is, then go directly from the furnace to the mold(edited)
you can scoop the dross off right before you pour, but you shouldnt have much since you skimmed a few mins before, so very little to no time lost there
the second you take brass alloys out of the furnace, your on the timer and every second counts you can try an extra 5 mins, but I usually let it heat up 10 mins some people's furnaces/burners aren't that great, so I said 10-15 mins
These are mostly notes to self and may not make much sense to others.
Am making some mods to the clamping system.
Removed the F clamps and filled the holes with plugs drilled for 3/8 bolts or rods.
Intend to make a few more toe clamps and include bolts on one or both ends to adjust them for level.
Currently the stop to determine cut position is to the right of the angle grinder. Thinking of reversing that so I can better clamp the work. (DONE) As is the last six inches of stock are difficult or impossible to use because it can't be clamped. So really only need 2 clamps on the cut off side and several on the source material. On the cut off side one clamp for the stop and one to keep the cut part from shifting.
Move the plate that holds the height adjuster from the bottom of the linear bearing to the top. This should provide about an additional inch of travel. Will need to make a new adjuster rod/linkage thing. Turn down/shorten a nut to lock the rod without using up much travel. (DONE)
Need to build an adjustable fence so the final square to the blade can be done with the fence instead of the arm that the grinder slides on. Have been thinking about his one for a while. Screws instead of welding to prevent metal warpage. Mayb #10 cap head socket screws. Have a few.
Just a note to self. Should tear down and grease the grider's head. It sounds dry.
If I recall correctly it tripped the breaker. I think/hope the blue smoke was from the capacitor. The motor would still turn but not come up to speed.
The multimeter did not charge the cap and the winding look like they just left the factory. No I did not take the meter to them.
This is an induction motor without starter windings, switch or capacitor.
Does have a run capacitor its actually a Mallory with the same number.
Cornell-Dubilier PSU27015A
Mfr. Part #: PSU27015A Allied Stock #: 70186362
Description
Capacitor, 270 to 324 uF, 110/125 VAC, 50 to 60 Hz, -40 C, +65 C, 10% (Max.)
Need to grab the cap and check but this is the one I found in my search history. From Delta its $30. The electronics parts houses charger $17 and up.
The motor is housed inside the sander body and was difficult to remove. The motor mount pivots on a rod which is driven into holes allowing it to span the body. One end of the rod has splines which dig into the hole to prevent it from turning. It should be driven out from the non spline side. Two C/Cir clips trap the motor mount in the correct position. The are deep within and I have no idea how I am going to get them back in.
While I had it open I changed the motor bearings. Uses 6302 ZE replaced them with 6203 RS's which I had on hand. Used the bearing splitter to remove both bearings. Used to brake press's 3rd cylinder to press the back cover off the rear bearing as the finish from the factory was dismal. Did not take much. Polished the armature bearing journals in the lathe with 600 then 800 grit wet/dry dry. After the polish they were easy to install but still a tight fit. The sort where you wiggle the bearing to get it to move up to a point. Then it slides on. One end needed a little persuasion with a pipe on the inner race but not much. Reassembled the motor with little difficulty.
Still need to check the bearings on the roller that carry the sanding belt. If they are good it is time to start putting it back together.
Sunday May 9
Installed the motor. For future reference I did not drive the rod in quite to where it is centered. Its close but not quite. If I have to drive it out again it needs to be driven from the side where the rod is below the surface of the case. Putting the cir clips on was not hard using the huge needle nose pliers. First was easy. Positioned the 2nd one in the groove with the pliers and finished pushing it on with a T handle allen wrench.
Pulled the bearings on the driven end of the belt. They are dry and tired. In the left image I was attempting to pull the holder off the bearing but the bearing came off with it. Used the arbor press to remove the bearing from the holder. On the right I got the bearing splitter behind the 17mm snap ring which positions the bearing and ruined it. Should be able to get that locally. These bearings are the same as in the motor 6203 RS. Will order 10 of them this time. Have yet to remove the bearings on the other end of the belt. Initial research indicates they are not so common. Might have to get them in Dalhart TX at the bearing shop.
Hope the motor works when I get a new cap for it. Will be a few weeks as I want to gather all the ELS stuff first so I can make one order to Mourser or Digikey. Its about $15 cheaper.
Update:
New cap did not help. Runs the same with or without it. Need to investigate further. Looking grim.
At some point I will build a tapping fixture where I can drill and tap without moving the work. Current plan is to use this drill base. The column is 1.81 inches. May cast a new table with slots that match the big drill press. Or X pattern slots.
This was left as a draft for a few days. It should have preceded the UPDATE post by 2 days..
I have cut all the flat parts from 1/8" hot rolled on the sliding abrasive saw. Wood Jigs or fixtures were used to cut the angles. Wood jigs and drilling guides were used to drill the holes.
This morning I bent the bottom brackets. They bent a bit too far. A little time on the anvil will open them and a few blows while clamped in the vice will move them the other way. Total adjustment.
Have top and bottom brackets cut drilled and bent for both new tables. Now on to the links. After that I will turn the round pressure disks and all the mild steel work will be finished but for the table top. At that point I plan to rust blacken theses parts.
